PLATTER DU JOUR These succulent smoked carrots have a garnish of crunchy quinoa, peanuts and a flurry of herbs.
Photo: Lucy Schaeffer for The Wall Street JournalJUST AS THE WEATHER was warming up, we were told to stay inside and barred from one of spring’s signature pleasures: barbecuing with friends. Still, there’s ample time to pursue a cooking project. Why not stovetop smoking? It’s fun, it’s easy and it replicates that live-fire flavor indoors.
Accomplished on any stove in a small smoker box filled with wood shavings, this method isn’t just for meaty dishes. Stovetop smoking is a great way to give vegetables full flavor and make them the centerpiece of a meal—good news for those of us feeling the effects of shut-in overeating.
SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS
Share your experience with this recipe: did you make any adaptations? How did you serve it?
“Our deep psychology is linked to smoke,” said San Francisco chef Peter J. Hemsley. “Since humans started cooking, it’s been an element of our food preparation.” With its depth of flavor, beefy texture and ruddy color, the smoked-beet tartare at his restaurant, Palette, “sends the meat message to our brain,” Mr. Hemsley added.
You can purchase the wood chips online or at any home improvement store; inside the covered metal smoker box, they catch fire and burn down to glowing embers. Foods set on a rack above the embers bathe in the delicious fragrance of smoldering wood. With pre-cooked veggies, the process is quite quick.
“ ‘Our deep psychology is linked to smoke. Since humans started cooking, it’s been an element of our food preparation.’ ”
At Little Nonna’s in Philadelphia, chef Marcie Turney applies this regimen to cauliflower. Cut from the middle of the head and pre-steamed, her cauli “steaks” take all of 10 minutes to smoke with some burning applewood or hickory. A post-smoke sear for caramelization and a sweet-tart Sicilian dressing, drizzled on warm, complete cauliflower’s transformation into a stunning entrée.
The method Ms. Turney uses, applying light smoke to already-cooked foods, is called cold smoking. Raw vegetables respond well to hot smoking, using higher heat for a longer time to cook foods through. Hot smoking tends to give off more smoke, which can be a problem in smaller apartment kitchens.
At Crawford and Son in Raleigh, N.C., chef Scott Crawford blanches carrots in salty water, seasoning and softening them before cold smoking. “It’s a much lighter smoke flavor,” he said. “But the smoke actually brings out a little more of the carrots’ sweetness.”
Smoking also gives the carrots an intriguing chew. Then they’re tossed with crispy quinoa and roasted peanuts in a rich soy-balsamic emulsion. “Smoke, sweet, creaminess, crunch, a little bit of acidity,” said Mr. Crawford. “We love getting all those elements into one dish.”
Once the Crawford and Son team started in on stovetop smoking, “we realized we could just about smoke anything,” said Mr. Crawford. Garlic to purée for sauces, meaty mushrooms to tuck into tacos, spuds that make next-level mashed potatoes, even cheese and yogurt—Mr. Crawford and other chefs are smoking all this and more.
”Equal veg to protein” is how Mr. Crawford describes the ratio at his restaurant, and no wonder. The primal pleasures of stovetop smoking could entice even hard-core carnivores to go meatless for a meal.
SMOKING SECTION / STOVETOP GEAR TO KEEP YOU FUMING
Delightfully low-tech, Camerons’ Original Stovetop Smoker ($50, cameronsproducts.com) is nothing more than a stainless steel box with a cooking rack and sliding lid. You must add aluminum foil as a drip pan, but that’s a smart addition to any smoker. This one works just as well on an outdoor grill.
Some assembly is required, but once that’s done you could smoke a small ham in the KitchenQue ($100, charcoalcompanion.com). It offers more than a square foot of cooking surface and 9 inches of height. The temperature gauge is handy, and the valve lets you check the smoke without much escaping.
The Presto Indoor Electric Smoker & Slow Cooker($100, gopresto.com) is programmable for cold, hot and combo smoking. The lid seeps a bit, and after long smoking the shavings turn acrid. Better to smoke a shorter time and finish big cuts in the oven. The slow-cooker insert can stew a side of smoky beans.
Made to infuse foods with smoke, not cook them, the Smoking Gun($100, smokinggun.breville.com) is the go-to for bartenders concocting smoked cocktails. Using just a smidge of wood, the hose-and-fan apparatus makes what looks like lots of smoke, but for more substantial foods, this one lacks muscle.
The gadgets are fun, but you can forgo them all with your own home-hacked smoker. Simply place aluminum foil in the bottom of a large pot with a snug lid, add wood shavings, cover with more foil and a steamer rack, and place foods on the rack. Sealing the lid with foil will help to reduce seepage.
Smoked Carrot and Crispy Grain Salad
For this vibrant salad, Scott Crawford of Crawford and Son in Raleigh, N.C., cold smokes pre-cooked carrots, a technique that minimizes the smoke aroma in kitchens with poor ventilation.
TOTAL TIME: 1½ hours SERVES: 4
½ cup quinoa
16 thin carrots, preferably multi-colored
¾ cup vegetable oil, plus more for frying
¼ cup aged balsamic vinegar
¼ cup soy sauce
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup chopped roasted peanuts
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon chopped chives
1. Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Cook the quinoa according to package directions. Then spread quinoa on a sheet pan and bake until crisp, 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium, add carrots, and simmer until fork-tender, 5 minutes. Immediately transfer carrots to an ice bath to stop cooking, drain and dry with a kitchen towel.
3. Add 2 tablespoons wood shavings to a stovetop smoker. Place carrots on smoker’s rack, and heat over high heat. Once smoker is filled with rich smoke, turn off heat and cold smoke carrots 30 minutes. (You can also skip Step 2 and simply smoke carrots over high heat 45 minutes.)
4. In a blender, combine vegetable oil, balsamic, soy sauce and mustard, and process until fully blended.
5. In a large skillet, heat 1 inch vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Add baked quinoa and fry until it puffs, about 30 seconds. Drain on paper towels, and season with salt and pepper.
6. Toss carrots with vinaigrette and grains. Garnish with peanuts, cilantro and chives, and season with salt and pepper. This dish can also be served warm. Simply heat smoked carrots in a skillet over medium-low heat in a few tablespoons of the vinaigrette until warmed through. Then toss with grains and vinaigrette, garnish and serve.
—Adapted from Scott Crawford of Crawford & Son, Raleigh, N.C.
Smoked Cauliflower Steaks With Sicilian Dressing
Marcie Turney, chef and co-owner of Barbuzzo, Little Nonna’s and several other Philadelphia restaurants, subjects that trendy vegetarian ingredient, cauliflower steaks, to a bout of smoke and then drizzles on a sweet-and-sour dressing for an impressive centerpiece dish. The steaks are delicate, so if they break, no worries: Cauliflower florets work just as well in this recipe.
TOTAL TIME: 40 minutes SERVES: 4
1 large head cauliflower
3 tablespoons kosher salt
6 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, 1 slightly smashed and 1 thinly sliced
1 rosemary sprig
¼ teaspoon fennel seed
1 shallot, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons white balsamic or Sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon capers
1 tablespoon golden raisins
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup chopped parsley
2 tablespoons sliced almonds
Zest of 1 lemon
1. Halve cauliflower, slicing from top of head down through the stem. Then cut 2 (¾-inch-thick) steaks from each half. Reserve remaining florets for another use.
2. Season cauliflower steaks with 2 tablespoons salt. Fill a large lidded pot with 1 inch water and put steamer insert in place. Lay steaks into steamer a single layer, cover pot, and steam on high heat 4 minutes. (You may have to do this in batches.)
3. Add 2 tablespoons wood shavings to a stovetop smoker, place cauliflower steaks on the smoker’s rack, and heat over high heat. Once you smell or see the smoke, lower heat to medium and smoke cauliflower 10 minutes.
4. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add smashed garlic and rosemary sprig . Working in 2 batches, sear cauliflower steaks until browned on both sides, 3–4 minutes per batch. Transfer to a serving platter.
5. In the same skillet, heat remaining oil over medium heat. Add shallots, sliced garlic and fennel seed. When garlic begins to brown, after about 1 minute, add vinegar, capers, raisins remaining salt and pepper.
6. Spoon warm dressing over cauliflower steaks. Garnish with parsley, almonds and lemon zest.
—Adapted from Marcie Turney of Barbuzzo, Philadelphia
Smoked Beet Tartare
Inspired by a dish L’Arpège in Paris, Peter J. Hemsley, chef-owner of Palette in San Francisco, boils, air-dries and hot smokes beets. All that cooking lends the root a beefy texture and flavor in this vegetarian ringer for a classic tartare.
ACTIVE TIME: 1¼ hours TOTAL TIME: 1 day SERVES: 4
3 large red beets
2 small carrots
1 turnip
1 celery root
1 parsnip
4 cornichons
1 shallot
½ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup ketchup
1½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup whipping cream
2 tablespoons grated fresh horseradish root
4 quail-egg yolks (optional)
Microgreens, for garnish (optional)
1. One day ahead: Place beets in a medium pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium. Simmer, replacing water as needed, until beets are fork-tender, 45 minutes-1 hour. Transfer to an ice bath to stop cooking. Use your fingers to peel beets. Let sit in refrigerator, uncovered, overnight.
2. Cut beets in ½-inch slices. Add 2 tablespoons wood shavings to a stovetop smoker and place beets on the smoker’s rack. Smoke over high heat until beets are tacky and brownish in color, about 1 hour.
3. Meanwhile, place carrots, celery root, parsnips and turnips in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium. Simmer, replacing water as needed, until vegetables are fork-tender, 45 minutes-1 hour. (Vegetables will cook at different rates. Remove them as they get tender.) Transfer to an ice bath to stop cooking. Peel vegetables.
4. Cut all vegetables into small dice and combine in a large bowl. Mince cornichons and shallots, and add to bowl. Combine with mayonnaise, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, and salt and pepper to taste.
5. Whip cream to stiff peaks. Mix in horseradish, and season with salt.
8. To serve, place a ring mold on a serving plate, fill with tartare, then remove ring. (Alternately, shape tartare into a disc.) Top with some horseradish cream and a quail egg yolk, if using. Garnish plate with microgreens, if using. Repeat with remaining three servings.
—Adapted from Peter J. Hemsley of Palette, San Francisco
Copyright ©2019 Dow Jones & Company, Inc. All Rights Reserved. 87990cbe856818d5eddac44c7b1cdeb8
"bring" - Google News
April 24, 2020 at 12:55AM
https://ift.tt/2yzju9R
How to Bring the Cookout Inside - The Wall Street Journal
"bring" - Google News
https://ift.tt/38Bquje
Shoes Man Tutorial
Pos News Update
Meme Update
Korean Entertainment News
Japan News Update
Bagikan Berita Ini
0 Response to "How to Bring the Cookout Inside - The Wall Street Journal"
Post a Comment